Weekend Cooking: Xi'an Famous Foods by Jason Wang

Today I’m talking about my final Abrams Dinner Party cookbook for 2020. If you’re into foods from western China or if you’ve been to Xi’an Famous Foods in New York City, then Jason Wang’s new cookbook, named after his restaurant, is for you.

I have to be honest. The first time I flipped through the cookbook, I was a little intimidated. Would I be able to find the ingredients? Would it take a ton of time to make the sauces before I started on the main dish? The answers are, fortunately, yes and no.

Right off, I want to assure you I could find many of the essentials (like black vinegar) as well as easy substitutions (like some kind of fresh hot pepper) at my local Wegman’s. I’m currently waiting until we get on the other side of COVID to visit our small Asian market, where I’m confident I’ll be able to find the rest of the pantry items (like sweet flour sauce). Vegetarian tip: I found a vegetarian “oyster” sauce made by Wegman’s that tastes very much like the real thing.

I love that Xi'an Famous Foods is a combination recipe compilation and memoir and is filled with tons of great photos of the finished dishes, of the restaurant, of the city, and of culinary techniques. Even if you’re not inclined to cook from Xi’an Famous Foods, I encourage you to read through it. The text is informative and interesting and the photos are inspiring.

Wang offers a wide variety of recipes, such as basic sauces, salads, pot stickers, skewers, soups, noodles, and even a few sweets. Vegetarians, and I think vegans, will find quite a few recipes. Gluten-sensitive eaters can serve most dishes over rice or gluten-free noodles.

I made several of the main dishes from Xi’an Famous Foods, but my two favorites were the Zha Jiang Noodles, with its two homemade sauces. It’s a ground meat dish spooned over noodles and topped with wasabi just before serving. The other recipe was for spicy cumin lamb, which was, according to the recipe introduction, one of Anthony Bourdain’s favorite dishes from the restaurant. I’ve provided the recipe below and included the scan of the finished dish to the right.

Note that the recipes, including the sauces, are easy to make, and even the homemade noodles look doable. In fact, several people in the Abrams Dinner Party group made the hand-pulled noodles (shown on the book cover). I haven’t given them a go yet but will once we get past the holidays.

Jason Wang’s Xi’an Famous Foods is recommended for its recipes and for its narrative text. I suggest you jump in and give the recipes a try. I think you’ll be as pleasantly surprised as I was by how easy it is to follow the recipe instructions and by the delicious results.

Note: Thanks to Abrams and the Abrams Dinner Party for the review copy. The scan and recipe are used with permission; all rights remain with the original copyright holders.

Spicy Cumin Lamb
Serves 2
BFR's note: If you don't like lamb, substitute another meat or use a non-meat alternative. I served this over rice.

• 10 ounces (280 g) boneless lamb leg (ideally partially frozen)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
• 2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
• 1 green onion, trimmed and chopped
• 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced
• 1 1/2 tablespoons ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons red chili powder
• 1/2 medium red onion, sliced
• 1 longhorn pepper, diagonally sliced

Carefully slice the lamb into 1/8-inch (3 mm) thick pieces (note: it's easier to cut when partially frozen).

Place the sliced lamb into a large bowl along with the cornstarch and 2 teaspoons of the vegetable oil. Mix together with your hands.

In a large skillet or wok, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil over high heat for 1 minute. Add the green onions, ginger, and garlic and saute for 30 seconds. Add the lamb and stir-fry for about 5 minutes.

When the meat turns an even brown color, turn the heat down to low, add the cumin, salt, and chili powder, and stir to combine. Add the onions and longhorn pepper, stir to combine, and serve.

Shared with Weekend Cooking, hosted by Marg at The Intrepid Reader (and Baker)