Weekend Cooking: American Food by Rachel Wharton and Kimberly Ellen Hall

I love reading about food history and changing culinary trends through the generations. I especially love a food history book that lightens the mood and makes me smile or laugh.

Enter American Food by Rachel Wharton with illustrations by Kimberly Ellen Hall. This fun, colorful, and informative A to Z "Not-So-Serious History" (Abrams Image, Oct. 8), hits all my buttons. Take a generous measure of history, stir in some humor, sprinkle with color, and add a dash of playfulness and you've got the gist of American Food.

I even like how the book came to be. Here's how Wharton and Hall describe it:

[We] chose our subjects at random, more or less--picking one well-known American food item for every letter in the alphabet. We had guessed that almost any food eaten in this country would have a multilayered history, some forgotten twists and turns. Thankfully we were right. (p. 6)

I've scanned the contents page so you can see all 26 topics, but note that some chapters veer off into other areas. For example, in the blueberry chapter we learn about their surprising connection to cranberries. Under redeye gravy, the authors mention Andrew Jackson. And, of course, what's a discussion about Orange Julius without a trip to the mall?

The most controversial chapter in the BFR household is the one about the Italian sandwich (hoagie, sub, hero, zep). Philadelphia gets a lot of page time, and that just fueled the flames for my Philadelphia-area-native husband to wax on (and on and on) about how Philly is *the* home of the Italian sandwich (by whatever name you choose). Oh, and only Philadelphians know how to make one. Sigh.

Other standouts in American Food--because of interest, nostalgia, or fun--are the chapters on Monterey Jack cheese, upside-down cakes, Mexican chiles, and zucchini breads. One of the donut illustrations made me laugh (read the entire caption under the drawing; you may have to click to enlarge), and the lunchbox drawings and text took me back to childhood. Remember the days before bento boxes?

Wharton and Hall don't forget that most people interested in the history of American food are also interested in cooking. Get ready to make your own ketchup, green goddess dressing, shrimp and gravy, and vinegar pie. Don't turn your nose up at that last recipe. One of the other Abrams Dinner Party members said the dessert was really good. I plan to try it soon.

Recommendation: So who would like Rachel Wharton and Kimberly Ellen Hall's American Food? You would! I think anyone with an interest in food would find something to love. If nothing else, Wharton and Hall will take you back to your youth or help you understand your grandmother's obsession with Jell-O. Finally, if you're looking for a fun hostess gift, stocking stuffer, or birthday present, look no further; American Food is a crowd pleaser.

Acknowledgments: Thanks to Abrams Books and the Abrams Dinner Party for the review copy. My thoughts are my own.

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